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Nissan Skyline GT-R: 5 Things to Check Before You Buy

The Nissan Skyline GT-R is one of the most iconic JDM performance cars ever made. From the R32 that earned the "Godzilla" nickname in Australian touring cars, through the R33 and R34, to the standalone R35 GT-R, these cars command serious money on the UK market. Clean R32s now fetch over 40,000 pounds, and R34 V-Specs regularly exceed six figures.

As JDM imports, every Skyline has a unique history that can be harder to verify than a UK-native vehicle. Most have been modified at some point, and the quality of that work varies enormously.

We've compiled 16 known issues across the Skyline and R35 GT-R range in our database. Here are the five that matter most, backed by specialist knowledge from the UK GT-R community.

Go deeper: These are just the highlights. Run a free Get Car Wise report on a specific Nissan Skyline GT-R to see which of our 16 known issues apply to that exact car, plus full MOT history analysis, mileage checks and a personalised buyer checklist.

1. Rust (Every Generation)

This is the single biggest threat to any Skyline GT-R in the UK. These are 30+ year old Japanese steel cars that were never designed for the British climate. Corrosion attacks rear arches, the bottom of the rear screen, inner wings, sills, floor pans and front turrets.

Structural rust can make a car uneconomical to repair or outright unsafe. R32s are the worst affected due to their age, but no generation is immune. Repairs can range from minor patching to full chassis restoration.

What to do: Check the full MOT history for corrosion advisories. Inspect rear arches, sills, floor pans and turret tops in person. Budget anywhere from 500 to 5,000+ pounds depending on severity. A Get Car Wise report will flag any MOT rust history automatically.

Sources: GT-R Register, Nissan Skyline owners forums, PistonHeads JDM section

2. Oil Pump Drive Failure (R32 pre-February 1993)

This is a potentially terminal issue specific to early R32 GT-Rs. Pre-February 1993 cars have a known oil pump drive design that can fail catastrophically and without warning, starving the RB26DETT of oil pressure and destroying the engine.

Nissan revised the design for cars produced after February 1993, making later R32s more desirable. The production date is critical when assessing an R32.

What to do: Confirm the exact production date of any R32 GT-R. Pre-February 1993 cars should have had the oil pump drive upgraded or replaced. Ask for evidence of this work. Budget 500 to 3,000 pounds for the repair if it hasn't been done.

Sources: GT-R Register, Nissan forums

3. Gearbox Weakness

Gearbox problems vary by generation but affect the entire range. The R32 suffers from 2nd and 3rd gear synchro wear, causing crunching when shifting under load. R33 and R34 models have a fragile 1st gear, particularly on cars running above standard power levels.

Modified cars with increased torque accelerate gearbox wear significantly. A gearbox rebuild is a common requirement on high-power GT-Rs and should be factored into the purchase budget.

What to do: Test all gears under load during a thorough test drive. Listen for crunching or resistance when shifting. On modified cars, ask when the gearbox was last rebuilt. Budget 300 to 2,000 pounds for synchro or rebuild work.

Sources: GTROC, Nissan forums

4. Turbo Failure (All Generations)

Stock turbos on R32, R33 and R34 GT-Rs use ceramic exhaust wheels that are fragile and prone to shattering, especially when boost is increased beyond standard levels. Even at standard boost, age and heat cycling take their toll after 30+ years.

The R35 GT-R has a high-stress twin-turbo setup that can fail between 60,000 and 120,000 miles, even on unmodified cars.

What to do: Listen for turbo whine or unusual noises during a test drive. Check for blue or white smoke on boost. Ask if the turbos have been replaced or upgraded. Budget 500 to 6,000 pounds depending on generation and whether you go OEM or aftermarket.

Sources: Nissan forums, GTROC

5. HICAS Four-Wheel Steering (R32/R33)

HICAS (High Capacity Actively Controlled Steering) is Nissan's rear-wheel steering system fitted to R32 and R33 GT-Rs. It is a complex hydraulic system that becomes unreliable with age, causing fluid leaks, an odd or unpredictable steering feel, and rear-end instability at speed.

Many owners choose to delete the system entirely using a lock-out bar, which simplifies the steering and removes a common point of failure. A car with HICAS removed is not necessarily a negative, provided the work was done properly.

What to do: Check for hydraulic fluid leaks around the rear subframe. Test the steering thoroughly at various speeds. If HICAS is still fitted, budget 200 to 800 pounds for repair or deletion. If already deleted, confirm the lock-out bar is correctly installed.

Sources: GTROC, Skyline owners forums

The Verdict

The Skyline GT-R is one of the most iconic performance cars ever made, and UK values reflect that. As JDM imports, every car has a unique history that's harder to verify than a UK-native vehicle. The RB26DETT engine is legendarily tough when standard, but most Skylines have been modified at some point. The key is finding one that's been properly maintained rather than abused.

Budget for specialist maintenance. These are not cheap cars to run. The ATTESA E-TS AWD system and the driving experience are genuinely special, but rust is the silent killer. A Get Car Wise report can check the UK MOT history, but for an import, always get a specialist inspection from a GT-R specialist like Abbey Motorsport, RB Motorsport, or SVM.

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Sources and Further Reading

This guide was compiled from independent specialist sources, owner forums and our own database of 16 known Nissan Skyline and GT-R issues. We are not affiliated with any of the sources listed above.