Is the Abarth 500 Worth Buying?

Why it's worth it

Nothing else in this price range feels like an Abarth. The go-kart handling, the exhaust crackle on the overrun, the way it turns a trip to Tesco into something you actually look forward to. It's a car with character, which is increasingly rare.

Practically, they're cheap to insure relative to the fun factor (group 30-33), cheap to service (it's a Fiat underneath), and small enough to park anywhere. Running costs are reasonable if you don't need to replace the clutch. Fuel economy is 35-40mpg in the real world, which isn't bad for a turbocharged petrol.

Resale values are strong. The petrol Abarth is holding its value because the electric 500e replacement is a completely different car. There's nothing new coming to replace the petrol one, so clean examples will only get rarer.

What to budget for

Clutch and dual mass flywheel: £1,200-1,800. This is the big one. DMF life depends entirely on how the car has been driven. City driving and riding the clutch kills it faster. Expect to need this between 40,000 and 70,000 miles. If the current owner says "clutch is fine" but it's at 55,000 miles with no record of replacement, price it in.

Boost solenoid valve: Around £200-400 fitted. Symptoms are limp mode, loss of boost, or inconsistent power delivery. Common on higher-mileage cars. Not expensive but annoying if you don't know what's happening.

Exhaust manifold: Can crack, especially on cars that have been mapped. Listen for a ticking sound on cold start that goes away when warm. If it's cracked, budget £300-600 depending on whether you go OEM or aftermarket.

Tyres: The rear camber eats inside edges. You'll get 15,000-20,000 miles from a set of rears. Budget accordingly and don't cheap out — the tyres are half the handling on a car this light.

500 vs 595 vs Competizione

Abarth 500 (135bhp): The original. Plenty quick enough. This is the one to buy if you want the experience without paying a premium for numbers on a badge.

595 (145/160/180bhp): Facelifted, slightly more refined, more power options. The 160bhp Turismo has comfort suspension. The 180bhp Competizione has Koni dampers and a mechanical limited-slip diff on some models. The Competizione is the sweet spot if you want to enjoy B-roads.

695: Limited editions with higher prices. Worth it if you're collecting. Otherwise, a 595 Competizione is 90% of the car for 60% of the money.

What to check before buying

• Clutch feel: High biting point, judder, or slipping under hard acceleration = DMF/clutch going. Non-negotiable — factor the cost in or walk away.
• Boost response: Drive it hard in second and third. Any hesitation, surging, or sudden power cuts suggest boost solenoid or wastegate issues.
• Cold start exhaust note: Ticking that fades after 30 seconds could be a cracked manifold.
• MOT history: Look at tyre advisories (tells you about alignment and driving style), emissions readings (tells you about engine health), and any suspension advisories (tells you about road quality and driving).
• Modifications: Remaps are extremely common. A Stage 1 remap is generally fine on a car that's been maintained. A Stage 2+ car with a bigger turbo and no supporting mods is a time bomb.